Before leaving George Town on Tuesday, March 14, we made sure to climb to the Monument and catch the views from the peak. On Monday, we reprovisioned and met with other cruisers going to the Abacos via Eleuthera; we said goodbye to Toby and George with promises to see each other in Groton; and we had our final drinks at Chat 'n Chill.
First thing Tuesday morning, we left with 15 other boats heading north. After the Regatta boats leave in mass; in less than a week the boat count dropped from 405 to 300 in George Town Harbor.
On the way out the Mail boat met us in the cut, port to port, with an eight-foot wake and only 150' between us in a very narrow channel lined with coral heads.
Anchored off Cave Cay by 1:00 with 3 other boats, we dinghied around and found a wonderful sandbar (our private beach) off an upscale resort at Musha Cay, and then visited the caves at Cave Cay and a huge marina under construction in a great hurricane hole. The water was so clear and the winds so calm we could follow the chain to the anchor (15' down) by moonlight. We kept thinking how much Michelle would have loved the calm and warm water. This began our first week of no wind and flat seas since we arrived in the Bahamas two and a half months ago.
Wednesday was a a 15-mile trip up Exuma Sound, and a perfect place to catch the night's dinner. Bob put out the rod and hooked a dolphin.
After tiring the fish out, Bob gaffed him and got him on deck, only to lose him when he took the gaff out, and the fish slithered down the steps. So the Barracuda had him for dinner instead of us.
At Black Point we received a warm welcome from Lorraine, who promises to have her wi-fi with Bob's router up and running soon. (We're in the Bahamas, mon!) We met Michael and Karen on Stay Tuned and all agreed it would be good to head over to Little Bay for better protection. Spending Thursday there, Bob focused on fixing the aft head - he fixed the forward one at this same place two months ago. After that nasty chore was done, we went back to Black Point to have dinner with Michael and Karen. Great people!
Missing Mystic's John's Cafe for St Patrick's Day, we went in search of a party, which we found at Staniel Cay. We sailed all the way from Black Point to Staniel, arriving just in time for the 4:00 start to Happy Hour and St Patrick's celebration. Hats, green beer, and 2-for-1 rum punches.
After a farewell to Stay Tuned , who are heading south, we motored a few miles to Pipe Cay, where we anchored off an old US Navy Decca station. It was so remote that they forgot a few of the sailors who are still sitting around at the Copa. This turned out to be one of our favorite spots.
We were the only boat. Finally! The winds had died, the water was flat calm and looked like glass. We could follow the anchor chain, see imprints of the starfish, and watch the fish swimming around us. It was a most incredible experience. We dinghied around with our looky bucket, walked on a beach with ours being the only footprints, and stopped at Compass Cay Marina to visit their pet sharks and fish.
We wondered about leaving our peaceful, private haven, but know we need to make our way across the Sound and with the weather window looking good, we inched our way to Cambridge Cay, through water so shallow and clear we could see the fan coral, fish, and a school of stingrays from the bow. Bob even saw a few conch which he threatened to stop the boat to get!
Cambridge is a protected anchorage with nothing around; it is the southern end of Exuma Land and Sea Park, so no fishing is allowed. We snorkeled the caves at Rocky Dundas and wished we'd had the underwater camera. Walking along the beach, we came upon a hammock, swings, a lounge chair - put together by cruisers from the debris washed up on shore. What creative people.
On Tuesday, we had a great sail across Exuma Sound from Cambridge to Rock Sound, Eleuthera with 15-20 kt winds and 3-4' swells. We liked the sailing, but Rosie wasn't too thrilled.
Rock Sound is a lovely little
town with all you could want. We'll be able to update this at the internet
cafe at the local gas station....before we tuck away for - yes -
another cold front. We think this is our 12th in less than 3
months. It will give us a chance to work on the boat as we
batten down the hatches and listen to the wind howl.
We will stay here for a few more days and then start north again to Spanish Wells and then the Abacos. Stay tuned for more.